Memories of Jazzfest, 1997

For a change, here's my diary entry for my New Orleans trip in April/May, 1997. Hope it's of interest and brings back memories for some.
Wednesday, April 23: Off to New Orleans with John (Howard) and Jonathan (Coke-Smyth). Stopped off at Detroit where we talked to a fascinating newsman called Ty Cusiak who was bombed in Beirut and had been everywhere. Got into New Orleans at 8.30, picked up a car and booked into the Days Inn. Went to Uncle Larry's bar in 18th Street, Metairie, where we chatted to some great characters: repo (repossession) men called Don and Scooter, who told us some hilarious stories about the tricks they pull to get people to part with money, a guy named Radar and a female goth called Alex.
Thursday: A quiet day in New Orleans lining up for Jazzfest tickets, drinking cafe au lait and eating beignets at the Cafe Du Monde and then having lunch at Doug's Place, the former Cosimo's studio. Bought some 45s at Jim Russell's Rare Records. Jim helped to bring about integration in the south when he was a DJ and taught Denise LaSalle to talk dirty, or so he claimed. Met up with John and Jonathan at the Royal Sonesta where they are staying (I'm at the Rose Inn motel again) and had some beers in the Crescent City Brewhouse. Then for a very nice but filling meal at K-Pauls - crawfish etoufee. Later went to a club called The Angel which Alex had mentioned, but it was dark and very noisy.
Friday: First day of the Fest - a cool and cloudy one with showers. After breakfast at the Clover Grill met John and Jon and went early with John to see the Bluebirds, a good white soul band, and bluesman Tabby Thomas. Highlights of the day were Rosie Ledet (sexy) (pictured above), and an amazing duet/interview between Dr John and Allen Toussaint in which they chatted and played piano. Also saw Oliver 'La La' Morgan, Chubby Carrier, Kat and the Kittens, C J Chenier, James Taylor, Bruce Daigrepont, Davell Crawford, Slim and the Supreme Angels and veteran jazzman Doc Cheatham. A pretty good day overall. In the evening I had a drink on Carrollton and then went to Irma Thomas's Lion's Den Club - very good as always. Keith (Johnson) there - as always.

Saturday: A horrible wet night followed by a very wet day. After breakfast at the Anita Grill I went to a flea market at Jefferson for records and then got some more at Wild Bill's junk shop. Decided eventually to go the Fest and got soaked. Didn't stay long, but saw Clancy Blues Boy Lewis in the blues tent and some of Keb Mo and Allen Toussaint. Ate in the Quarter and then went to the Mid City Bowl to see the great Johnny Adams (above) and a bit of Marva Wright, then to the River Shack for the Bluebirds before ending up briefly in one of the dives in Metairie.

Sunday:Up late. It poured down again as I had breakfast at the St Charles Tavern but it cleared up so went to Jazz Fest. Not a bad day: Margaret Lewis and Kenny Bill Stinson (pictured above) were good, as were The Meters, Earth Wind and Fire and Irma. Also saw some of Frankie Ford, Sonny Landreth, Chris Smither and Houston Person/Etta Jones. A great evening at the House of Blues watching the Neville Brothers, who were excellent. Got picked up by a stunning blonde called Christine, chaperoned by her equally stunning friend, who disappeared as quickly as she arrived. 
Monday: Checked out of the Rose Inn and drove up through Baton Rouge and Natchez to Ferriday, where I had a look at the museum and Jerry Lee Lewis's house. Next stop was Winnsburg where I got some records in a junk shop and then Monroe where I got some more at Twin City Records. Stopped off in a bar in Ruston where I played a video quiz against some of the locals. One of them asked me where I was from and when I said London he exclaimed: 'London? What the hell you doing in Ruston?' I went on to Shreveport, checking in at the Motel 6 in Bossier. Nothing much going on apart from a Mexican place where I ate and a crowded club called Tommy's Place which had a blues jam.
Tuesday: Left Shreveport heading south calling in at junk shops on the way. Had lunch at the Pig Stand in Ville Platte in the heart of Cajun country. Weather better so decided to go back to New Orleans arriving a 6.30. Checked in the Rose Inn and met J and J at the Sonesta. Ate at the Camellia Grill (uncrowded for once) and then went to Jimmy's. Very few people there and after watching Maria Muldaur we gave up.

Wednesday: Met up at the Sonesta for a tour of St Louis No 1 Cemetery. Then to Record Ron's which was selling 45s for 50 cents. Met John at the Crescent City in the evening and ate there before heading off for a varied evening. Started at Ernie K-Doe's Mother In Law Lounge: he was sitting on a sort of throne and was completely out of it. The only others there were his family - his new wife Antoinette complained that Jazz Fest should be paying a legend more to perform. Went on to the River Shack for Tab Benoit - it was packed with bikers. Then on to The Angel for some industrial rock from some band or other and some thrash rock from the Evil Mothers.
Thursday, May 1: Breakfast in St Charles and then off to the Fest. Watched some Beausoleil, J Monque, Frogman Henry, some Eddie Bo, Mary Chapin Carpenter and a short bit of Galactic. Left early with Jonathan to watch the election results on C-Span at the motel, A Labour landslide with Michael Portillo out among many others and quite a few Lib Dem gains. Satisfied (me anyway), we left at 9 to go to the House of Blues to see King Floyd, who was rather lacklustre, and Taj Mahal, who was a revelation. 
Friday; Met John for breakfast (Jon was ill), then went to the French Market where I got some LPs. Not the greatest day at the Fest: Ernie K-Doe didn't show, Delbert McClinton was good and there was an interesting interview with Carol Fran and Clarence Holliman. Saw some of Sherman Robertson, Bruce Hornsby, Al Jarreau and Coco Robicheaux. Met John and Jon in the evening and had a steak at Nick's on Carrollton. Saw Paula and Pontiacs and Marcia Ball at Jimmy's and then went to Ernie K-Doe's place for some great blues (Ernie pictured on our first night at the Lounge above, and our second night, below). Jon Cleary came in after opening for James Brown.

Saturday: Up quite late - no breakfast. Went to House of Blues for T shirts and Record Ron's for more 45s. A really great day at the Fest: Cookie and Cupcakes (pictured below), who had reformed and making only their second appearance (after Utrecht) (and sadly their last), Syl Johnson and Fats Domino on great form, made all the more pleasant by Sakiko from Tokyo who I chatted to. Met J and J at the Crescent City and then to the Mermaid Lounge for the Hackberry Ramblers and C C Adcock, who were playing outside. Finally John and I went to place called the Showcase, a black club on Elysian Fields, to see Davell Crawford.

Sunday: Final day of Jazzfest. Watched some of Snooks Eaglin, all of the Zion Harmonizers (minus Aaron Neville), a bit of George Clinton, C C Adcock and left early. In the evening went to the Bourbon Orleans Hotel and found Sakiko there and then on to see Irma (pictured with me below) at the Lion's Den. Sakiko and other Japanese visitors were there. Had a good chat to Irma's daughter Dorell.

Monday: Last full day in New Orleans. Met up with J and J who have checked out of the Sonesta and into the Rose Inn. Drove to Slidell and then to the North Shore for a burger, then back along the Causeway. In the evening had a meal at a soul food place and John exploded at Jonathan when he complained yet again about the split of the bill, A Mr Angry moment! John and I went on to Monaco Bob's stripper night, where we talked to Lisa, an exotic black domme, and Gemma. two fabulous looking showgirls from Rick's Cabaret (pictured below). Left at 2.30am.

Here's Marva Wright, who died much too young.

This is Syl Johnson.

Here's a photo of John, just after he got out of rehab by the looks of it.

Me with Sakiko.

John, me and Jonathan on the North Shore.