Jazz Fest memories of 1993 - Part One
I'm continuing my occasional series of trips down memory lane with my diary entries this time for my visit to New Orleans Jazzfest in 1993. Hope it's of interest to those who were there (and even those who weren't). Part one of two. Second instalment will follow soon.
Thursday, April 22. Up at 6 feeling rotten but got to Gatwick OK and the flight (BA) was early into Houston. Lovely sunny, hot day. Picked up the car, a Chevy Cavalier, from Alamo and headed east. Stopped for a Cajun meal (seafood buffet - very nice) at Pierre's near Lake Charles and stopped overnight at a Motel 6 near Baton Rouge.
Friday. Up very early after going to bed at 9. Stopped for breakfast at a Shoney and got to the Rose Inn Motel in New Orleans at 9am. Went to Tower Records with John J (Jolliffe) and Mick from Harrogate and got an Irma Thomas CD. Beautiful weather. And so to the Jazzfest. Had a quick look at Bruce 'Sunpie' Barnes and then enjoyed Anson Funderburgh and Sam Myers. Marcia Ball was excellent, then some foot-tapping with Beausoleil (see photo below). Theryl and Reel Life were a great find - Otis Clay styled soul. Next was the legend, Bob Dylan. He started ten minutes early and even though his vocal range is now down to about four notes he gave a varied, interesting and quite enjoyable set. Before leaving had a quick look at Bobby Cure (not impressed). In the evening called into the Palm Court Jazz Club to say hello to Nina Buck, the owner, who I've been asked to interview for The Times, then met up with John H (Howard), Dave (Thomas) and spouses, John J, Adrian and Mick at the Crescent City Brew House. We went on to Irma Thomas's club the Lion's Den. It's been done up but it's still intimate and Irma's voice was great as ever. although her material is getting rather MOR. Back at 3.15.
Saturday. Felt awful overnight from too much booze and not enough food. Had breakfast near the hospital and phoned home - everyone's fine but a bomb's gone off at the Natwest Tower. On to Jazzfest where I saw a little bit of Rockin' Dopsie and a fabulous set by Kat and the Kittens - James Brown style. Watched Zachary Richard for a few minutes, then some of bluesman Robert Lowery and some fine piano playing from Carl Sonny Leyland in the Grandstand. Then the real highlight - Tyrone Davis (top picture) - the dog's bollocks as John J said. Finished off with a bit of Johnny Adams - great as usual. In the evening walked through the French Quarter with John (not clear from the diary if it was John H or John J) and ate just off Bourbon. Then on to the Municipal Auditorium to see Johnnie Taylor, who did a short and rather half-hearted set, and Patti Labelle (see photo below), who was wonderfully over the top in front of a 90 per cent black audience.
Sunday. Jonathan (Coke-Smyth) arrived. Earlier John, Mick and I had breakfast at the Clover Grill. Checked out a flea market on the West Bank but no luck. First on at Jazzfest was Kenny Neal, with his whole family. Had a quick listen to the smooth Earl Turbinton (see photo below) and a look at the excellent Mighty Imperials in the gospel tent, then settled down to some New Orleans funk with Allen Toussaint, dressed in bright peach. There was some dull gospel from the New Zion Trio and I spent a few minutes listening to Steve Riley, followed by some dirty blues with Tabby Thomas and a disappointing gospel spot with Dorothy Love Coates. On to the New Orleans legends: Jessie Hill, his voice completely gone, and Ernie K-Doe, drunk and dishevelled. Could be the last time I see them - Ernie looked particularly bad. Finally the day's highlight - a great set from Fats Domino and his band. In the evening met up with John H and Dave and co at Cucos Mexican bar on Carrollton for Margaritas. Not much on musically so landed up at the Blues Harmonica Showdown at the Mid City Lanes where John J, Jon, Mick and I watched Jumpin' Johnny.
Monday. Lazy day mooching around record shops in the French Quarter and Metarie. Had a po-boy with John J and Jon near Lake Pontchartrain, and ice cream and then a drink at the Landmark. In the evening went to the Palm Court jazz club to interview Nina Buck, a Briton who has made her home in New Orleans. It was a gala night with 88 year old trumpeter Doc Cheatham and 84 year old New Orleans banjo player Danny Barker. Different, but quite enjoyable. Went with Jonathan to try to get into Tipitina's, but much too crowded. Spotted John H and Dave and co outside and we all went to see Walter Washington at Jimmy's - good soulful stuff - and then to Muddy Waters for Marva Wright, who was in lively form. Here's a photo of Nina Buck outside the Palm Court and one of Danny Barker with Doc Cheatham.
Tuesday. A fairly quiet day despite John J celebrating his 50th birthday. Drove out of town heading for Grand Isle but after lunch at Larose decided it was too far so drove instead through Houma and Thibodaux, where we looked at the Acadian museum. Got a few old but scratched 45s at a thrift store and had a quick look in Goldmine Records which was just closing. In the evening went to eat at Chez Helene, an interesting Creole and soul food restaurant, and then met up with John, Dave and co at Cucos. Irma's club was closed so we went to Maxwell's in Toulouse St to see Barbara George. The band was dreadful and Barbara struggled.
To be continued...
Here's a photo of Tabby Thomas.
This is Walter 'Wolfman' Washington.
Here is the great Ernie K-Doe, looking somewhat dishevelled.
Another New Orleans legend, Barbara George at Maxwells in Toulouse St.
Here are some of the UK contingent: L-R John Howard, Nick Cobban, Jonathan Coke-Smyth, Mary Howard, Mick from Harrogate, Dave Thomas, John Jolliffe, Julie Thomas.
John Jolliffe celebrates his 50th birthday at a Mexican restaurant on Carrollton.
Finally here's another photo of Tyrone Davis, the 'dog's bollocks'. More diary entries and photos from 1993 soon.
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