New Orleans memories - 1991

My recent post featuring the diary entry from my visit to Jazzfest in 1997 seemed to go down well, so here's another one - from 1991, with photos taken at the time.
Thursday, April 25. A long, long day en route to New Orleans via Charlotte - same flights as the Festival Tours group. Eventually arrived on time to drive through to a damp NO. Picked up the car, a Mazda, after winning an argument over whether I pay extra for damage waiver.The first night hotel - the Howard Johnson Westbank - isn't bad - the rooms are huge, but it's too expensive. I'll be checking out in the morning. Had some gumbo in the French Quarter and a couple of beers in Bourbon Street. Not too crowded - yet. Tired though so went back to the hotel. 'Support Our Troops' stickers all over the place.
Friday. Thunderstorms all night and still raining in the morning so the festival was cancelled. Checked out and moved to the Rose Inn Motel, rather grotty but cheaper. Went to Record Ron's and Tower and bumped into Keith (Johnson) and others. Then to the Voodoo Museum - Jen would like it - and St Louis Cemetery, but the heavens opened before I could find Marie Laveau's tomb. Had a drink at the Landmark Hotel. Lonnie Brooks was there. Made up for no Jazzfest in the evening - a great night! Went on the Creole Queen river boat - Eddie Bo was fantastic, backed by Wayne Bennett and Red Tyler. Irma Thomas (pictured above) was good too, with an excellent brass section.Then to Muddy Waters, meeting up with Dave (Thomas) and Mick (McDonald) in the queue. Little Ed (and Imperials), a swivel eyed bluesman (pictured being carried aloft below), Lonnie Brooks - thrilling guitar, a couple of songs from Ko Ko Taylor (also pictured) and, to finish off a great show, some blistering guitar stuff from Kenny Neal. Back at 4.

Saturday. Didn't sleep well, up at 8.30. Had breakfast in the Clover Grill, then to St Louis cemetery again to find MV's tomb. Got to Jazzfest about 12.30. Parked the car in the yard of a black guy who offered me some crack. Saw Jean Knight first - Mr Big Stuff was excellent but others rather Aretha-ish. Dave and Mick there. Marva Wright - excellent searing R and B; Harmonica Red - a quite lively harp man from Baton Rouge; Charmaine Neville - athletic and tuneful if a trifle unexciting. Another evening to remember as I went to the Creole Queen again where a very thin crowd watched Ernie K-Doe, Barbara George and Jessie Hill. Ernie was his usual cocky self. I sat next to him and he seemed rather subdued (pissed maybe) off stage. Barbara gave it all she's got and I felt obliged to buy her new album - on cassette ('Bad Luck and Trouble', now a collector's item I believe). Jessie Hill did a short but lively set. None of them in their heyday but all of them legends (see photos below)

Sunday. Breakfast at the Clover Grill again and then off to Jazzfest. Met up briefly with Dave and Mick at Willie Tee. Caught a bit of the Ohio Players' funk and a bit of Rockin' Dopsie - he's getting more commercial. Clarence 'Frogman' Henry was in a wheelchair but in great voice. Caught John Mooney and Bluesiana (good but not great), Clarence 'Gatemouth' Brown (varied but very good), Troy Turner (young Hendrix style blues man from Baton Rouge), Finally the good Dr John (highly enjoyable). I've spend nearly 600 dollars already - records, gigs, hotels etc. In the evening went to Irma Thomas's Lions Den club with Dave and Mick. Irma was fantastic - particularly in her second set where she did a string of great deep soul songs. Dave and Mick were very pissed and I had too much but what a great evening. Had a chat with a new Orleans music man called Don Bell. Emile Jackson was less friendly though. Back at 4.

The night before the morning after for Michael.

Monday. Weather appalling.Decided not to go out of town as planned - partly because of that and partly because Dave and Mick were suffering from last night's excess. Mick had stumbled away when I dropped them outside their hotel, the French Market Inn, fell asleep in a gutter and was robbed of his money, cards etc. I booked into a fleapit motel on Airline Highway and bought yet more records (I'm going to have to control this addiction). Went to the River Walk and bought some books and had some red beans and rice and then to the Landmark. From there went to the Piano Night at Tipitina's. Highlights were Jon Cleary and Eddie Bo, plus Art Neville who failed to finish a song. Willie Tee was pretty good and Tommy Ridgley  was enjoyable. Eric Burdon also did one number. Back at 3.30.

Tuesday. Weather still miserable but decided to do a bit of touring anyway. Drove along the Gulf Coast stopping for a shrimp po'boy at Bay St Louis, quite a pleasant spot. Carried on to Mobile and hit upon a record shop - a cheap one -  on the way out. Went to Dauphin Island, a pleasant spot where Fort Gaines is located -  the site of the battle of Mobile Bay between the US and Britain. Had a seafood meal and drink: the barman told me that the saying 'Raising Cane' came from Joe Cane, a Confederate who had seven wives and who invented Mardi Gras. When he died a custom grew up whereby seven widows would visit his grave on the Sunday before Mardi Gras to try to 'raise' him from the dead.
Wednesday, May 1. Took the ferry across Mobile Bay to Fort Morgan, scene of two battles in the War of 1812 and also the Civil War. Weather beginning to brighten up. Got bitten by mosquitoes. Drove up through Mississippi to Lucedale, stopping off for lunch on the way. Went back to NO via Poplarville where I chatted to an 82 year old man who said he owned two Stradivarius violins. Rainy again in NO. Went to the Landmark and who should be there but John (Howard): he couldn't keep away! Went for a meal at Mulate's with him and Jonathan (Coke-Smyth), Then John and I went to Jimmy's. Carl Sonny Leyland (from Southampton) was on first but we got a bit fed up with the main act Buddy Guy and went to see Marva Wright at Muddy Waters instead.
Thursday. A quick dip in the motel pool then off to the Landmark, breakfast at the Clover Grill, then to Jazzfest by bus with John and Jonathan. Snooks Eaglin was on first -  a set which improved as it went on. Lynn August proved to be a very good zydeco singer, but Kate and Annie McGarricle were boring. Bobby Marchan was good NO R and B, although the band Higher Ground were uninspired. Took in a bit of Taj Mahal and Eddie Bo (3rd time this trip) finishing up with C J Chenier, who wasn't bad. In the evening met up with John and Jonathan and went to Michauls's for a much better Cajun meal (catfish). Then on to the Lion's Den for another great evening. Allen Toussaint guested on keyboards. Irma seemed much more relaxed and did a completely different set. Even Emile Jackson smiled. Large UK contingent there including Dave, Keith, Bob and several others. For good measure Lee Bates did a couple of convincing Otis Redding songs.
Friday. Got some money and got to Jazzfest just in time to see the end of C P Love, who seemed very good. Watched a bit of George Porter but there followed a rather slack period although Deacon John was pretty good. Watched half an hour of the tall and exciting Marcia Ball, followed by some swamp pop with Tommy McLain (pictured below) and Warren Storm. Drove John, Jon, Dave and Mick into town. Had two bloody Mary's in Dave and Mick's hotel happy hour and then sort of watched a spaced out Willie DeVille in Tower Records. Another great night. Met up at the Landmark and went with Jonathan and Mick to the Mid City Bowl to see the excellent Johnny Adams. Then to Michaul's where John and Dave were watching Wayne Toups and then on to Tip's where we got in free and saw a whole hour of Irma - wonderful as ever. Back at 4.30. Call signs: Stella (as in Streetcar Named Desire), Jimmy Barnes (an Aussie singer) and Kenny Ball (ie Can'e bowl?)

Saturday. Went to River Walk to buy presents for the kids. Then it was off to Jazzfest again. Not a vintage day but enjoyable. Kenny Neal was very good; Wayne Toups was crowded (the whole place was); the Jolly Boys from Jamaica were fun; Jeannie and Jimmy Cheatham's jump blues was excellent, but the best spot was the Dixie Cups. Met up with John, Jon, Dave and Mick in the evening and went to a huge glitzy honky tonk called Mudbugs: very strange place, straight out of Dallas. Then on to the Bowl (again) where the Iguanas were playing. Had a game too.
Photo shows us in Mudbugs L-R John Howard, Nick Cobban, Jonathan Coke-Smyth, Dave Thomas, Michael McDonald.

Sunday. Last day of Jazzfest (sad). Started with Mr Google-Eyes - ancient, offbeat, suffering from a stroke apparently; Oliver 'La La' Morgan, a bit of Frankie Ford (rather MOR), an amusing interview with Champion Jack Dupree, 5 Blind Boys of Alabama (highlight of the day), some Allen Toussaint , some Champion Jack, a bit of Robert Cray, a little Dewey Balfa and finally the Neville Brothers. What a festival. What a downer heading home. Went to the Landmark for one final drink. The usual guys there. Had an interesting talk with Dick Waterman, legendary manager of many bluesmen and rediscoverer of Son House. Also Ken Lending, Champion Jack's guitarist. Richard Thompson also there.
Monday. Up at the unearthly hour of 5.30 to return the car and catch the plane.Went into Charlotte to pass the time. Modern and rather soulless. Got films developed (remember that?) Then the long flight home.
Here's the great blues guirarist Wayne Bennett.

Troy Turner at Jazzfest.

Here's a shot of Allen Toussaint guesting at The Lion's Den.

Me with Barbara George.

And with a rather bored looking Ernie K-Doe.

Bowling at the Mid City Lanes.

Mick and Dave in typical pose.

There may have been some alcohol involved here as well: happy hour at the French Market Inn.