Memories of Trinidad - 1996

In the last few months I've published my diary entries for some of my US trips in the late 1980s and '90s. This time I am turning to my diary of a different type of trip - to Trinidad, Tobago and Grenada in 1996. I travelled around the islands with a friend, Sarah Jane (SJ), who, as a Trini, was able to take me to parts of the islands that the tourists do not normally see. There was music as well, with Soca playing a big part along the way. Plenty of photos too, and I'm including some here.

'May 10. I’m on the flight to Tobago, having taken off one and a half hours late (caterers’ strike). Two interesting weeks ahead.  Well I certainly hit the ground running. SJ met me at the airport and we picked up a rickety jeep and went to the rented flat – surrounded by cockerels, goats, bread fruit and trees. We had a nice meal at the Peacock Inn, which was deserted. Then we went to a gig which was brilliant fun – reggae singer Eddie Lovette, soca star The Shadow and a strange crooner called Elvis Gaines. Hundreds of Tobagons celebrating Mothers Day and having a good time at the Golden Star. Back to the flat where there was a scorpion on the floor. After much jumping around the scorpion was squashed! Didn’t sleep much.

Steel band at Pigeon Point.

Audience at the Eddie Lovette/Shadow show.

May 11. Up early – my body clock was six hours out – and SJ cooked me breakfast. We went to Fort George near Scarborough which was pretty, then drove up the coast to Charlotteville at the north end for lunch. Drove down a really rough road in the north west of the island and found Jonathan’s (Coke-Smyth) uncle’s plantation. An English guy called Gordon was living there alone in a little house on the top of the cliffs slowly renovating the main house. Drove round the island along endless winding roads which disturbed SJ. Had an undistinguished and expensive meal in a touristy restaurant and then had an early night and slept much better.

May 12. Went to Pigeon Point and swam – very idyllic. Then to Stone Bay for a cheap local meal. There was a steel band playing. This part is being spoilt by development. Had an excellent meal in the evening at a place called Marcia’s where they played a great soul tape. Caught a crowded taxi to Scarborough to catch the overnight ferry.

May 13. Arrived ridiculously early in Port of Spain (4.30am). Waited around for ages and eventually had fish bake at the Breakfast Shed. Had a wash at the Holiday Inn and then sorted out travel arrangements at Navarros. We caught a crowded maxi taxi to Arima and then on to Cumuto where SJ’s friends Denise and William live in a wooden house in the middle of nowhere. William (Mr Lyrics) took me for an afternoon ‘liming’ at a camp in the woods with Mr John (a rasta), Mr Brown and Mr Malcolm. He was carrying a machete and a duck was killed Halal style and cooked with ‘provisions’. There was much fruit, beer and herbs and an impromptu game of cricket which broke the ice and they accepted this pale white guy into their group. All very different and fascinating. I had an appalling headache afterwards but I recovered – SJ had been in Port of Spain and came back in the evening.

Liming in the back woods in Trinidad.

May 14. A very hot sticky night on a mattress on the floor listening to the buzzing of mosquitos which bit me furiously.  Up early, having been bitten to death. We met SJ’s friend Mary in Arima and then went to the airport to catch the flight to Grenada. The house here is great, overlooking the Grand Anse beach which is beautiful and has many locals selling trinkets. I walked down to the beach for a quick swim while SJ watched music videos on TV. She cooked in the evening (blue marlin and bread fruit) and I had an early night.

May 15. Hired a jeep and went into St George’s, the capital. The whole island is beautiful and in the centre of town there is a branch of Barclays with a policeman outside directing the traffic. We had a rum punch at the Nutmeg bar overlooking the lovely bay and a roti there later and looked around the town. Later spent some time on the beach before coming back to the house. In the evening went to the Candoulet restaurant – a lovely place overlooking the harbour .

In Grenada: view of St George's; Barclays Bank (I was working in Barclays PR department in London at the time); Sarah Jane at the Nutmeg; and Esther and Sarah Jane at Grand Etang lake.

May 16. Went to see SJ’s cousin Esther, living in the hamlet of Mardigras, again  in the middle of nowhere. She was lively, good looking and very sexy. The three of us went into St George’s and then into the mountains to see the Allandale Falls and Grand Etang lake, then on to Grenville, a distinctly non touristy but colourful town for lunch. Kids were playing an impromptu game of cricket in the middle of the road. Back via terrible roads, picking up one of Esther’s friend en route who came for dinner.

May 17. Drove up the west side of the island (very pretty) to Sauteurs and Carib’s Leap, where the last of the native Caribs jumped to their deaths in 1651 to avoid capture by the French. Lazed on a beautiful beach for a couple of hours. On the way back stopped for a sandwich in Victoria. Later went into St George’s and I got a couple of reggae LPs and T shirts. In the evening had curried lambie (conch) at the Nutmeg and watched Miss Universe on TV.

May 18. Up early to prepare for leaving Grenada. The flight was late and then we had to wait for ages for the hire car. Drove to Cumuto to pick up our things, then to Sangre Grande to meet SJ’s friend Mary. Up the coast to find somewhere to stay – the planned place was no good, but eventually found a huge old place overlooking the sea in Rampranalgas on the wild and sparsely populated north east coast. I think we’ll be OK here. Tired after much driving. First we had to check in at the local police station for security reasons. The place was a wooden hut with huge moths flying around and the local policeman sitting on the verandah with his feet up.

Beach views during the trip, plus the beach house we stayed in at Rampranalgas.

May 19. Rather a frustrating day but had a quick swim at a nearby beach and then Mary and her estranged husband Rene and two kids arrived. After some food I drove to the beach at Sans Souci on the north coast with Rene and Ron and had a swim and a game of catch. Also looked at the lighthouse where the Caribbean meets the Atlantic. Limed around later and then did the interminable drive to Sangre Grande once again to take Mary home.

May 20. Up early to go to Port of Spain via SJ’s father’s house in Valencia and SJ’s friend Maurice. Got some cash and narrowly escaped having the car towed away, got my plane ticket to Tobago and had lunch at Wayne’s restaurant. Walked around POS for a bit and got some records at Rhyner’s Records, including a couple of soca LPs (such as the David Rudder one at the top). Saw the sights of the city and then drove to Sangre Grande in heavy rain where we met Liz for some food and SJ’s brother Robert and uncle Vernon. Eventually back to Rampranalgas.

May 21. It rained hard overnight so we’re having a lazy day at the house, SJ occasionally making phone calls about various work possibilities. The place stinks of the anti mosquito coils which are essential in these parts.

May 22. Drove to Port of Spain and parked the car at Wayne’s restaurant. I spent a couple of happy hours searching through the upstairs room at Rhyners’ which was packed with records (some of them quite rare UK issues) while SJ talked to prospective job people. Later walked around the Savannah taking photos of the big houses there. Went for a quiet meal at an upmarket place called Baba’s and then met another of SJ’s friends, Joy, on Brian Lara Promenade. We went to calypso night at the Mas Camp pub  - Bill Trotman (better known as Trinidad Bill), Mighty Conqueror, Fanny, Tigress, El Fousto – great fun and a really super evening. Sadly I’ve lost my voice. After the show we drove to TK’s by the sea at San Fernando for the night, arriving at 1.30am.

Calypso night in Port  of Spain: Bill Trotman (top) and Tigress (second from top). Not sure of the others but if anyone can name them please let me know in comments.

May 23. Last full day. Went to see the Pitch Lake – a geological oddity comprising a huge natural area of ashphalt in the south west of the island. Called in on a volleyball contact of SJ and bought a blender at a mall. Then to Sangre Grande and the beach at Manzanilla – very windy. Still no voice. Back to Rampranalgos to pack. Early night.

May 24. Back to reality. Up early, then to the airport via Cumutu. Fond farewells. I don’t know if I’ll be back but what a fortnight. Like no other I’ve ever experienced.'

The Pitch Lake.