Memphis blues

We've reached Memphis on our road trip. After Kansas City we stopped off at Sedalia, something of a one horse town but with two record shops almost opposite each other. We stayed overnight in West Plains, a small town which was rocked by a mystery explosion which killed 37 people in the 1920s. When we arrived in Memphis I went to the Blues Foundation office to pick up a media pass which I had hoped would get us access to events surrounding the Blues Music Awards which are taking place. It didn't really work out that way although I did get into part of a reception at the convention centre where there were speeches being made. One was about a book about early blues women by Angela Davis and another about early blues singer Lil Green. In the evening we went to a blues jam fundraiser at Alfred's on Beale (the media pass saved me $5 on entry). There was a long list of blues artists taking part, many of them nominees for awards, interrupted by auctions and raffles. The highlights included Terrie Odabi, looking fabulous as she always does, who sang just two numbers including one called, l think, 'Justice for All'. Other good acts included guitarist Chris Cain, the very popular Mr Sipp who did only one number, and a local group called Southern Avenue with an exciting lead singer called Tierinii Jackson. Other artists included Beale Street regular Vince Johnson and younger blues rock artists Mattias Lattin, Dylan Triplett and Tony Holiday. There was also Canadian band the Blackburn Brothers.

Next day we paid our respects at some of Memphis's iconic music locations. The Stax museum and academy complex is looking great these days and I recalled my visit in the 90s when there was just a marker and waste ground. Sun Studio was busy as usual but I hadn't realised that the cafe there closed down some years ago. Royal Studio was closed but still operating I think, but Aretha Franklin's childhood home is still in the same state of disrepair as it was the last time I was here. A disgrace really.

I n the evening we went to Wild Bill's Juke joint which I was pleased to see was as authentic as ever, if slightly larger than I recalled. Playing there was Big Don Valentine with left handed guitarist Miss Chloe. They were excellent as were a couple of female singers who did a few numbers each. A great evening once again.