The Vinyl Word: Another Jazzfest memory: 1992

Here is another series of diary entries covering US trips of the nineties - this time my New Orleans Jazzfest trip in 1992.Thursday, April 23. Seemingly endless journey to New Orleans. Left home for Gatwick at 8.30 and got the 12.00 flight to Detroit. Travelled with Dave Carroll, who then went on to Cincinnati. I had to hang around Detroit Airport for four hours -a God forsaken place...then went to Atlanta for another hour's wait before getting the New Orleans flight. Totally knackered. Staying at the Days Inn, near the airport.
Friday. After breakfast with Dave, I went to the airport to pick up the car. Eventually got it - a Ford Taunus - after a dispute about whether CDW was included. Booked into the Rose Inn Motel and then to Jazzfest. A cloudy day but very hot and humid, First on was Eddie Bo (who else?). Saw a little bit of Little Freddie King, who was poor. Next was Bobby Cure and, for about three numbers, Robert Parker ('Barefootin'). Met up with John (Howard), Jonathan (Coke-Smyth), Keith (Johnson), Dave (Thomas) and Julie (Thomas) by the stage. Wayne Toups was good, probably the best of the day. Subdudes less so and Don Montoucet was pleasant Cajun stuff. Jimmy Buffett was very crowded so went to see Jean Knight, who did mainly covers. Dave C and I then went to Tower where they were selling 45s for 10 cents each. I got 54! In evening met up with Dave T at the Brewhouse and then to Irma Thomas's Lion's Den with Dave C. Irma wasn't playing and we were the entire audience for L J (Larry) Hamilton (pictured above) who was very good. He recorded a soul 12 inch through (snooker player) Steve Davis and Voices From The Shadows. Had a look at Tipitina's but it was too crowded so gave up.

Saturday. Raining in the morning but the sun soon came out and it turned into a lovely day - 80F but not humid. Unfortunately I was suffering from an allergy and I was streaming. Breakfasted at the Clover Grill and then to a record shop in Metairie where I got an original Arthur Alexander LP and 3 singles. Off to Jazzfest where I saw a bit of the Willie Lockett band and then listened to an interview with Otis Clay and Ann Peebles (pictured above) . A couple of numbers from Zachary Richard, then Marva Wright, who was good, a spot of the Reggie Hall band with Sadie Thompson. Settled to enjoy Ann Peebles and Otis Clay - the day's highlight. Saw a bit of the Highway QCs, a little bit of Eddie Lejeune and finished with Lynn August, who was excellent.Met up at the Landmark with John, Jonathan, Dave T and Julie - the latter insisted that we eat at a dreadful Shoney's place when other restaurants in the French Quarter were full. Dave C and I decided to go to the Lion's Den - and it was the right decision. A great night - Irma in relaxed, full voiced form, doing some new material. And Johnny Adams (pictured below) was a surprise guest, displaying his vocal gymnastics to the full. Bought an Irma T shirt and got it signed. Still streaming.

Sunday. Had breakfast just off Canal Street, then to the Fest. A beautiful day again. First some blues with Clancy 'Blues Boy' Lewis, then gospel with the Friendly Five and Cajun with D L Menard. Watched some Allen Toussaint and then some joyous New Orleans R and B with Ernie K-Doe and Jessie Hill with the Magnificent Sevenths featuring Wayne Bennett. Next was Irma Thomas - great atmosphere. My signed T shirt was much admired. Then to Gladys Knight - the music of black America - a few minutes of Nathan's Zydeco Cha-Chas, finishing with a rocking Dr John. A super day. Met up with the others at the Landmark. Jonathan, Dave and I went to Tipitina's to get tickets for the Nevilles and then went for a rather lousy Mexican meal. Tips was packed as ever and the Nevilles were on good form, but we were all knackered and left after the first set at 1.15.
Monday. Breakfast at the Clover Grill and then met up with John and Jon and Dave C at the Landmark. Drove over to Biloxi, playing Beat the Intro on the oldies station with John - a very close contest. Spent some time in Ace Video looking at records and lists. Bought 6 singles and 6 cheap LPs. Had a snack at Po Folks on the coast road. Another gorgeous day. In the evening went to the beautiful Saenger Theater for the gospel show. Five Blind Boys of Alabama were excellent, missed the gospel choirs: Al Green (pictured below as he strolled through the audience) was in fine form, his soft and powerful voice cruising through a load of gospel songs and a couple of oldies - 'Let's Stay Together' and 'How Can You Mend a Broken Heart'. A lot of sermonising but I can stand that to hear his voice. We all had some wine and a club sandwich afterwards.

Tuesday. Breakfast near Canal St. Sent some postcards and checked out of the Rose Inn. Went on a swamp tour at Kraemer on Bayou Bouef - plenty of small alligators and turtles. Quite cold on the boat - last night was the coldest at this time of year for years. Had some lunch in the First and Last Cafe in Donaldsonville, then drove to Lafayette, staying at the relatively luxurious Travelodge. In the evening we hunted for El Sido's zydeco club but the place was closed. Went for a meal at Prejean's Cajun restaurant - music not too good but delicious crawfish etoufee. Had a drink and back to the hotel. Met John and Belinda, part of the Festival Tours group.
Wednesday. A nasty wet day for our trip round Cajun country. First stop was Washington, where the flea market was closed. Then through Opelousas to Ville Platte. Bought 3 LPs in Floyd's record shop and then had genuine Cajun tasso (pork) in the Pig Stand nearby. Floyd Soileau was in there with John Broven. Had a look at Mamou in the pouring rain (Fred's Lounge was closed), then at a record shop in Eunice. Finished at the record store in Church Point before going back to New Orleans. Met Jon and Dave T and went to Tipitina's for Black Top night. First on was Mike Morgan and the Crawl - proficient but not brilliant; Snooks Eaglin in soulful mood; Antone's House Band backed Grady Gaines, Clarence Holliman, Carol Fran (excellent) and Big Robert Smith. Highlight was Robert Ward - amazing guitar sound. Saw some of Earl King, but very tired so left. Back at hotel at 3.45.
Thursday. Breakfast at Clover Grill, then went to Tower where I bought a Spencer Wiggins CD. Got to Jazzfest at 2. First was Clarence 'Gatemouth' Brown, who was OK, no more; then the Howlin' Wolf reunion with Henry Gray and Hubert Sumlin, which was good enjoyable blues; then Junior Walker - great horn playing but lousy voice; Carl 'Sonny' Leyland - lively R and B; finally Albert King who was rather heavy but very good. In evening went to Charlie B's where we had a front row table for, appropriately enough, Charles Brown (pictured below). Although 70 (seems young now!) he was in brilliant form and his band was also excellent. From there to the Lion's Den where we caught Irma's second set. Brilliant atmosphere. Talked to Nancy, a merry divorcee, and her daughter Sherry. Back at the motel at 3.30. A superb, unforgettable evening - two of the greats, Charles and Irma.

Friday, May 1. Up at 10, breakfast near Canal St. Arrived at Jazzfest at 11.45. Flitted around a lot - saw a bit of Troy Turner, Frogman Henry interview and his set (he's walking again and he can do his frog voice again now he's quit smoking), Tabby Thomas, Earl King. Augie Jr and the Big Mess Blues Band, Kenny Neal and Charles Brown. Met Dave C at the Earl King interview and left early. Browsed around record shops on Decatur. Vivid pictures on TV of rioting in LA. Met Jonathan at the Landmark and went with him and Dave C to Storyville. Watched Carol Fran, with Clarence Holliman, who was excellent again and Marcia Ball's hard driving R and R. Very hot in there and we left at 2 before Marva Wright had appeared. Competed with Dave on dead artists and record labels.
Saturday. Breakfast in Clover Grill then phoned home from a call box in the French Quarter. Felt better knowing all is well at home. Barnet and Blackburn have made the play-offs apparently. And so to the Fest: a surprise first, with Sugar Boy Crawford appearing with his grandson Davell - his first time at the Jazzfest. Had a look at Ironing Board Sam rocking away; then sat down for Beausoleil; next was Tommy Ridgley, with Chuck Carbo and Al 'Carnival Time' Johnson. Frogman there - got a pic taken. Went to see the end of Larry Garner's soul blues, then took in some gospel with Bobby Jones and New Life, the wonderful Johnny Adams, a few minutes of C J Chenier, finishing with the brilliantly soulful Bobby Womack. In the evening went for drinks with John, Jonathan and the two Daves and Julie at a Mexican place neat Carrollton Station. Then Dave C, Jonathan and I went to the Mid City Bowl to see Johnny Adams, who was great as usual.Pictured below: Chuck Carbo with James 'Sugarboy' Crawford.

Sunday. Last day of Jazzfest and the hottest, sunniest day of the lot. Breakfast at Clover Grill. Started at the Fest with Walter Washington, who was spoiled by poor sound, then Jimmie Dale Gilmour, who I really enjoyed. Had a quick look at Chris Owens' glam act. Then bought a gris gris for Jen, blessed for luck and health by voodoo priestess Ava Kay Jones. Saw the Dixie Cups next, who were great, then a bit of Vernard Johnson, the 'gospel Junior Walker'. Said farewell to John and Jon who were leaving at Frankie Ford's act, then saw Linda Hopkins - a real treat. Finished off another great Fest with a bit of Hugh Masakela and some good time Radiators music. Had a meal in the Quarter Scene with Dave C and the met up with Dave T at the Brewhouse. Went to Irma's club - probably for the last time as Emile's looking for a new place. Another super evening. Keith there as usual. Drove Dave to the airport and didn't get to bed til 4.30.
Monday. Parked at River Walk and wandered over to Tower. Bought 7 CDs there and met Dave T and Keith. Felt very tired. Drove around in PM and met two black record addicts in a thrift store. Drove one of them - Thyron - to his record store in Basin Street and got some good LPs. In the evening went down to Bourbon St. Had some red beans and rice, caught a bit of Ironing Board Sam in a bar. Early night for a change.
Tuesday. Up at 9. Went into Canal Street for breakfast and to buy T shirts and baseball caps for the kids. Then to the airport to return the car and say goodbye to New Orleans. Off to Atlanta and then Detroit where I had a couple of hours to kill. Then the long flight home.
Here's a photo of Clarence Holliman and Carol Fran